Archive | December, 2012

The Best Weapon for Under Eye Circles

5 Dec

I get asked all the time about hiding dark circles under the eye.  In order for me to point out what you should do, I’ll first talk about what I see on a regular basis.

1. The use of a much lighter concealer in order to cover the circles

NO NO NO! It’s sound logic, but you’re already fighting dark discoloration, by using an extra light concealer, you are essentially faced with the new problem of, “Let me make my now gray/white skin under my eyes match the rest of my face.” Some will argue that using a much lighter concealer will act as a highlighter under the eyes. Again sound logic, but you now have 2 different color temperatures on your skin, which means when light hits it, it will illuminate differently.

This is the end result

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To the naked eye, this probably looked amazing! But the flash bulbs see it all!! To test this out, use concealer, blend it well then take a flash photo of yourself. If you picked the wrong concealer, it will look like this. This is not what a highlighter should do.

2. Using way too much product

So you used a light concealer, now you have to make it match your face, so you pile on the foundation. What often happens is the products dry and cake throughout the day and inevitably you end up looking like a chalky hot mess.  Not cute! Don’t overdo it with the foundation. It is not a mask!

3. Using the wrong product

While touching up a female celebrity client with chronic dark eyes, I asked her which product she uses. She said, “The best concealer on the market, Dermacolor.” I wasn’t going to argue because she has a point; Dermacolor is amazing…for covering scars and tattoos! If you’ve ever handled a Dermacolor palette, you know it’s extremely chalky. You don’t want any chalky products anywhere near your eye. Applying anything chalky means it will not blend correctly and will dry out. All you are doing is pulling and tugging on your skin to make it blend. Yes, you can emulsify it with some eye cream, but Dermacolor is a really heavy concealer. They are meant to cover bold ink, birthmarks and scars. You want full coverage, not anything heavy.

The key to ridding yourself of discoloration is…(drumroll)…color correction.

You’ve probably seen some on the market recently. There are tons of orange, green , yellow and lavender primers out there. Each color has a different function:

Green combats redness, like rosecea

Orange combats dark discoloration, as in bruising or under eye circles

Yellow combats pink spots like blemishes

Lavender combats orange from self tanners and yellow looking skin

Stila makes a great all-in-one correcting product that I use on my clients with Rosacea. NYX makes concealer pots in these colors that are affordable, but I barely use these because they are dry and need a lot of emulsifying. There simply is little time to be mixing colors in live TV.

I’m certain none of you want to spend 20 minutes on just your under eyes alone, so for the quickest, most efficient way to use color correctors,  you want a product that will work for you. The ideal product is a creamy, easily blendable, full coverage color correcting concealer, for the under eyes, you want something orange tinted.

My favorite go to productfor this is…

Eve Pearl’s Magic Salmon Concealer

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Eve Pearl is a professional celebrity makeup artist based in New York and she makes the most beautiful foundation and concealers. They are buildable, creamy, and provide full coverage. (Her packaging isn’t my favorite, it should be made a little bit tougher, but the product itself is ridiculously good). The one pictured above is the trio, good for makeup artists and for people who tan. It’s a great value ($52) and a little goes a long way. They do however make duos in light, medium and fair ($39 each) for those of you that want your color only. Seriously, this stuff is magic. You can buy it online at http://www.evepearl.com/

So, how do you use this stuff?

1. Prime your skin! Moisturize, apply a little eye cream. Get your skin ready. Having said that, don’t use anything heavy. No heavy creams. You want something that will absorb within a few minutes and leave your skin soft. I made this mistake this past weekend, I used a new day cream that didn’t absorb and I applied my makeup on top. My makeup never set! My face felt greasy, like my makeup was sitting on top of that day cream! ugh!

2.  Apply a small amount of the color correcting product of your choice right under your eyes and blend. It’s obviously not going to blend to disappear –it’s orange! You want to product to look smooth on your skin, and hide that dark discoloration. (If you are using a bold  thick product like the NYX corrector, you may want to emulsify with a little bit of regular concealer. It will help to neutralize the bold orange color. This is why I recommend a color correcting concealer, it will save you time!) 

3. Apply a liquid or creme foundation all over and blend, blend, blend!!!. You will need to apply a little more to your under eyes to blend the tones together, but don’t go crazy. If you blend correctly, you will not need a lot of product. Foundation is meant to mattify and create a smooth even canvas, not cover your skin or change your skin color. Your skin should look natural, radiant and well rested.

4. Set makeup with a powder. You used quite a bit of product under there, you don’t want it to move. Do an extra swipe under the eyes with your powder brush.

5 .At this point, apply the rest of your makeup. If you’re into highlighters, you can finish by swiping a little bit of powder highlighter under your eyes, down the bridge of your nose, on your chin and in the center of your forehead. This adds dimension and light to your face.

As an extra tip, if you really want to hide your under eyes, don’t bring attention to them! Avoid heavy lining on your lower lashline. If the product moves you’ll get a smeary dark line, which completely undoes any work you just did to cover your bags. Draw attention to your cheeks or your lips instead.

Happy fighting Beauties and Studs!

xoxo!

Amanda

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